A Study of the Appearance Characteristics and Generation Mechanism of Giant Waves

Shin, Seung-Ho; Hong, Key-Yong

Journal of Navigation and Port Research 2006;30(3):181-187.
Published online April 30, 2006.

대양에서의 거대파랑 출현 특성과 발생 기구에 관한 연구

신승호, 홍기용

A Study of the Appearance Characteristics and Generation Mechanism of Giant Waves

Seung-Ho Shin, Key-Yong Hong

Abstract

In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.

Key Words: 파열 Giant wave;Linear wave focusing;Nonlinear wave focusing;Nonlinear schrodinger equation; Wave train